Visiting The Largest Slum In Africa

During the GEN Africa conference in Thika Felix and I met two rap artists that come from Kibera, Batheng and Gaz. One of many slums in Nairobi which inhabit a total 60% of the cities population on only 6% of the cities land. A combination which results in terrible pollution and an unhealthy small living space which couples with disease. In total 2.5m people are slum dwellers and 1m of these live in Kibera, making Kibera the biggest slum in all of africa and one of the biggest in the world.

Anyway after staying in Mtwapa near Mombasa for a little we headed to Nairobi to meet up with Batheng.

"Hey guys, good to see you. Watch out with all the cars, let's get down to that matatu and head back to my place." Batheng welcomed us as we got out of the bus in the centre of Nairobi. It had just started to get dark and the colorful lights of the matatus reflected on the wet asphalt, making the street appear in a disco like setting. The hustle and busyness of Nairobi was in stark contrast to the relaxed atmosphere we experienced in Mtwapa and didn't make a nice first impression. We followed Batheng through the masses, trying not to loose him in his fast pace while at the same time always keeping our eyes on our bags. Just in case someone tried to rob us, something that we heard was quite an usual occurrence around here.

"Ok this is it, just get in and we'll get to my place in about 30 minutes." Batheng told us as he moved some people aside for us to be able to squeeze into the little vehicle with our big bags. We arrived about 45 minutes later near where he lived and after a short walk on which we bought some food for dinner we got to his place. As it turned out he had moved out of Kibera and was now living in Umoja 3, one of many upgraded slums in and around Nairobi.

The following morning we wake up early and Batheng shows us around his neighbourhood a little. Very nice place if you ignore the drunk person here and there that tries to get some shillings from you.

"Let's buy some chapati and then we can go to town. There is a big football game taking place which I want to take you to." Batheng informed us as we jumped over the rails that ran not too far from his place. So after another reasonably long trip and some ice cream we get to the football stadium of Nairobi. In which today an african championship game would take place. The local team from Nairobi 'Gor Mahia' and the tunisian team and last years champion 'Esterance' would compete in this match. And what a match it was.

"Wow, just look at all this." Felix and I thought in awe as we witness thousands of fans jumping and screaming as Gor Mahia scores the first goal. They seemed to go absolutely crazy (in a good, energetic way). After fully exerting all our energy watching everyone have a good time we get out of the stadium and climb some fences to not have to wait in the long queues on the way out. In the end Esterance beat the local team 3:2, but people didn't seem to be in a bad mood about it all. Instead they were all continuing the party on the streets around the stadium. Loud vuvuzelas, shouts and chanting filled the air around us as we get into the matatu to take us back home.

"Ok tomorrow I will take you to our project in Kibera." Batheng says as we get into bed after a filling meal with fish and ugali as a main followed by a mango and banana dessert.

The next day we get out of bed ready for the day trip through Kibera. We arrive there quite early in the day and get to meet some of Batheng's friends living there. Overall the smell and and especially the feel of the place wasn't that bad, not that it would be where I would like to live but it seemed that it's reputation was worse than the slum itself. Through a maze of little tin huts with rusty roofs that overhung the narrow and dirty streets Batheng leads us over rivers made out of any waste imaginable to a small but newer building. This had been transformed by a group of young people which Batheng and Gaz played a main role in, Kibera Talking (watch the video in the link to give you a better idea) was their group name which through music and art share the stories and challenges in the community, and express the need for social justice in the slums. The building is now a library open for people in the area to come and read in addition to being a space for young people to hang out. On our way back to Batheng's home we walk along a big market which sells cheap quality clothes. Batheng was having a phone call and a young man runs beside us, he tries to snatch Batheng's phone. However he reacted too quickly and started running after the 'thief' who now received a few slaps and then got away. This all happened in a few seconds and was a quick reminder that Felix and I had been extremely lucky to not have come into any situation where something was stolen or worse.

None the less we had to leave Kenya at some point so a couple of days later we travelled to go to the airport in the evening. For some reason this was the day on which all the matatu's to the airport were on strike so we weren't able to find anyone for a long time. Only after searching for about an hour we finally manage to convince a taxi driver to take us to the airport for the few shillings that we had and a couple of british pound that were still flying about in my pocket from when first arrived in Kenya. It felt relieving to fly back, I missed the organised lifestyle. In Nairobi's hectic and messy streets this need for the calm and cold scottish sea became stronger. None the less after this truly amazing experience filled with beauty and people I was looking forward to one day coming back to Kenya.